MAPPING TUSCANY

The Cala Violina cove keeps being voted one of Italy's best beaches. Not for its beach bars and deck chair rentals (there are none), but for its clean waters and beautiful location with views towards the isle of Elba. The main reason why the Cala Violina cove remains a natural paradise lies in the difficult access to it. The beach can be reached only via a footpath through the Mediterranean shrub. However, this doesn't mean the beach is exactly off the beaten path. A paid parking area has been set up, due to the growing fame of the bay in recent years. The hike doesn't seem to put people off. The tiny bay is called the violin cove because of the sound its fine sand makes when you walk on it. There is indeed a special sound to walking on it, but in summer you'll only be able to hear it if you tell my kids or the other Italians around to stop shouting around. HOW TO GET TO CALA VIOLINA BAY From Castiglione della Pescaia take the coastal road towards S...

Close to the border of Lazio, Tuscany's southernmost town resembles a Roman colony during July and August. Albeit not one with gladiators and soldiers, but with Rome's left-wing intelligentsia populating hillside bars and restaurants as much as the deck-chairs along Capalbio's endless beaches.  To balance things out, the seaside town Ansedonia a few kilometers up the Tuscan coast has been for decades the holiday destination of choice for the eternal city's right-wing fraction. These days it's hard to say whether this geo-political line  of division is still in place - with all the party hopping of Italian politicians it's impossible to discern which side they presently belong to. But whatever the current opinion of political visitors (a class of people also derisively called la casta - the caste),  Capalbio's own views have stubbornly stayed the same for centuries. 

If you've been quietly following my photo stream on Instagram or Facebook , you may have been wondering about the exact location of the Sunday walks we've been taking this spring.  Not that I'd tell you.  I prefer to keep the hills of our valley to ourselves. Just the thought of a fellow hiker getting to the wild asparagus a few minutes before me; or a loud American tour group spoiling our calm morning in the fields...

Church lovers have endless selection in Tuscany. Roofless  San Galgano , Romanesque Sant'Antimo  near Montalcino or the Monte Olivieto abbey  in the Crete Senesi are some of the most famous cathedrals and monasteries in the South of the region. But if you cruise the Tuscan hills, always keep an eye out for the small Pievi, the fascinating and often very beautiful countryside churches.  La pieve di Lamula with Mount Amiata in the background The pieve di Lamola is one of them. Hidden away between Arcidosso and Casteldelpiano the small church was an outlet of the famous San Salvatore abbey on the slopes of Mount Amiata.  Even though the facade dates back to the first half of the 20th century, the pieve managed to keep many of the pagan symbols and the calm ambiance so typical of Tuscany's countryside churches.  Inscription on a pillar inside the church 

Tuscany in the winter can be gloomy and chilly. Hotel rooms may be freezing and your favorite restaurant can be closed for most of the cold season. But this won't frighten the lover of strolls, walks and serious hikes. Because fog,  rain or even snow are rare to stay around. It's in spring and autumn that Italy gets most of its rain falls (or at least that's what the weather used to be like in the past). Tramontana and other winter winds may be cold, but who cares?  The incredible light, crystal clear views and the absence of tourists make sure you won't mind about having to dress in layers.    Wondering where to start hiking in Tuscany? Stunning scenery awaits around every corner, but signed out walks aren't quite that easy to get by. A great place to start is the Maremma National Park . Hiking trails are well looked after and the views towards Tuscany's islands and its southern coastline are too good for words.  To find out more about the myster...

These boots are made for walking. At last, it's time to cruise the hills again. 

Trekking in Cinigiano: beautiful views, lovely tracks and - oh boy -  plenty of Tuscan wine and food. SATURDAY, MAY 5 - "TREKKING DE' CITTI" . Kids' trekking ('citti' means 'bambino' in Tuscan dialect) 3pm registration at Cinigiano's tourist office. The children's trekking is for free, but registration is necessary (for insurance reasons). Apart of insurance for the day, the kids will get a nice gadget to take home. 3.30pm Start of the trekking in Castello di Porrona (a lovely medieval hamlet five minutes from Cinigiano by car). From Porrona the kids will be taken on a  guided walk trough the Tuscan countryside with animal watching and flower picking. Once back on Porrona's beautiful piazza there will be a snack and lots of fun games waiting for everybody.  Kids from 6 to 12 years of age. Younger children can join if accompanied by their parents. Older ones may want to join the trekking on Sunday morning. 

I've written about Tuscany's cultural hibernation before. So it's always a relief when in spring not just the plant world but also the event scene comes back to life. April doesn't just bring moody weather but traditionally opens the festival, food and wine fair season in Southern Tuscany. And luckily, from here on things will keep going strong for the following six months.  Spring at last

San Galgano Abbey  So where's the roof? Gone for centuries. By now San Galgano's top bit has been been off for longer than it ever was on. Even though the abbey's history started well, things weren't meant to last. The Cistercian monks began with the construction of the church in 1218 and finished it in 1288. At the same time the monks were also in charge of the construction of Siena's famous cathedral - San Galgano had quickly become one of the most influential monasteries in Tuscany. 

Another one!? I know. From October to December Southern Tuscany is all about Olive Oil festivals . But remember, we are not talking about yet another old and greasy oil; we are talking about Tuscany's prime and freshly pressed Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO). So even if you have already run into  Gerard Depardieu  tasting EVOO in the Crete Senese or you are still hanging in the trees, busy with your own  olive picking  - it's time for a break. Grab your car keys and get down to San Quirico d'Orcia.

No Jack-O'-Lanterns in sight: Gustatus Festival, Orbetello My Tuscan native is no narrow minded person (as long as you don't count his tendency to some exagerated Tuscan Campanilismo ...). Neither is he a xenophobic - remember he lives with one of Italy's many Extracomunitari (a foreigner who comes from a country not belonging to the European Union, e.g. a Swiss like me). He even went as far as having two kids with me. But all this open-mindedness comes to a sudden halt when he hears of Halloween. The problem not being Halloween in itself, but Halloween in connection with Tuscany. Why here? Of all places! He has a point. Celtic traditions haven't had a stronghold in Italy since... the invention of television? In case you belong to the many people who didn't book a holiday in Italy to celebrate Halloween, here are some alternatives to a weekend full of Tuscan Jack-O'-Lanterns:  Food stall at Orbetello's Gustatus - Not just fish  ...

The last grapes have been picked, the leaves are turning reddish - it's time to get going on those olives. And Gerard Depardieu is with you on this one. Tuscan olives waiting for their destiny If you join in the fun at the Festa dell'Olio Nuovo  in Trequanda, you may end up sharing your first Bruschetta of the season with the French actor. He is is as infatuated with Tuscany's green gold as you and me.  In fact Gerard Depardieu uses  Trequanda's fabulous extra virgin olive oil  in his very own  restaurant in Paris .  And whilst you can eat away he will have to cut out a minute on Sunday to hand out the 'Premio Giordana Carpi Oliva d'Oro' . 

I'm on a secret mission. After a sleepless night I mustered the courage to do something I'm not supposed to do. At least according to my Tuscan native. I'm going to b log about MONTICELLO's FESTA DELLA CASTAGNA (the local chestnut festival). But shhhhh, don't you dare telling my better half! If you insist in reading this blog certain things will just have to stay between you and me.  Never heard of the notorious Tuscan Campanilismo ? If you want to experience it for real come to Cinigiano. Part of the council's territory includes Monticello. A miserable and cold little village on top of an unwelcoming mountain, populated by a bunch of half-wits.  Which is my Tuscan native's description of the town, who - it goes without saying - is not from Monticello. He is from Cinigiano, pure blood. And his statement is in line with the view of the rest of the Cinigianesi - the 500 people who were fortunate enough to have been born and raised a full 10 kilometer...