MAPPING TUSCANY

I'm writing a book (which has been published in the meantime). Hence I raise the word count by cutting down on aperitifs (not an easy feat in my Tuscan village ),  and I keep the storyline going  by dodging invitations to Sunday lunch. But when I know that the table will look like this... and the food like this it's hard to resist... Hence we drove to the Chianti and followed the crowd through the woods  to jump into  the midst of the clatter, chatter and laughter of a Tuscan Christmas gathering, which was cleverly interrupted by countryside walks to make sure there was room for more, until - inevitably - the moment arrived, when all the plates were licked and the last bottle of Chianti was emptied and it was time to go home (you said you drive, right?).  INGREDIENTS FOR A TUSCAN GATHERING Lunch was organized by Emiko Davies and Giulia from Juls' Kitchen , who with the help of their respective partn...

I'm no friend of nativity scenes, but there i s no Christmas in Italy without a presepe (I could also do without Christmas, but that's a different story). Tuscany's creches  come in all shapes and materials and whilst the manger scene at my in -laws is made of plastic other households show off  elaborately carved artisan figures under their Christmas tree. However, th e  most exciting cribs are  found outdoors  or in former barns and pigsties, where  real people freeze off their sandal wearing feet for their method acting performance of Mary or Joseph (the newborn is mostly fake though).  Perhaps my Christmas crib aversion has to do with being a mother and knowing that the last thing you need right  after having given birth is an incessant stream of strangers popping in to say hello. All the jolly men and  rejoicing  animals jamming it around the crib and everything Maria probably hoped for was a female friend to help her get up - u nl...

If my Tuscan native is going to leave me one day, you'll know why. Nobody could for ever put up with my never-ending ideas for a change in interior design. Or rather exterior design.  We must have about five tables around our house. One for every time of the day and amount of sunshine. I would have been happy to move them around according to the season, but my brother-in-law preferred to cement them into the ground for eternity. Hence, my need for another one. To enjoy the winter view from our olive grove.  A trial meditation last December with the table I normally use on our terrace (the only movable one left) It was just before Christmas that I realized that I couldn't possibly get through another winter without a table in the midst of our olive trees. Not just for  picking breaks , but for quiet contemplation and morning meditation. Which, no need to say, is all about coffee in Italy. 

Over a decade ag o a group of Italian tourists  from the Veneto quickly s topped at one of Cinigiano's two small bars to ask for directions to famous Montalcino.  They left three days later.  The historic center of my Tuscan town  may not be much of a sight ,  but the  village bars have a certain reputation. In fact the aforementioned group has  been coming back every year. And rumo rs have it that they still haven't gotten around to make the drive to Brunello town .    WHAT TO  SEE A stroll through Cinigiano's tiny town center will make it obvious - the views towards Mount Amiata and over the  Maremma countryside  are the main attraction.  For more of them h op into your car and drive to one of the hamlets and villages which belong to Cinigiano's territory. Medieval looking Monticello Amiata is up on 734 meters and with that perfect for a cool  breeze on a hot summer day (and for freezing winds in ...

A quick round up of my favorite wild hot springs and historic bath towns in Tuscany (more detailed information on spas and rock pool bathing can be found in the single articles the links will lead you to).  WILDERNESS POOLS   PETRIOLO  half an hour to the south of Siena. With its steaming hot water in the upper row of pools a favorite of mine on icy cold winter mornings. The Farma river passes right next to the hot springs. So be courageous and have a splash to try the benefits of kneipping.   SATURNIA  the biggest, most southern and also Italy's best known (and loved!) wilderness pools. The closest option for a soak if you arrive from Rome. To be avoided on weekends.  FOSSO BIANCO  in the Val d'Orcia is a spectacular sight hidden away in the woods below Bagni San Filippo. The shady surroundings make of these natural springs a nice location in the summer.  BAGNO VIGNONI  has a lovely pool below the small waterfall. ...

For reasons to me unknown (or at least too complicated to be explained), fate has me walking Massa Marittima's picture perfect town center every year once during winter. And each time I can't but stop and marvel at the timeless beauty of Massa Marittima's monuments against the backdrop of a crisp blue winter sky.  No need for a Fellini film, if you can spend a morning people-watching on the  tourist free main square  in front of the gorgeous cathedral (building it in an oblique angle towards the rest of the piazza was a true act of genius!). This February morning serendipity even went so far as having me run into Donna, the blogger behind Maremma Guide , who writes one of the most informative and useful websites for people exploring this part of Tuscany.  The archaeological museum and a slice of the cathedral

My Tuscan native is right. I spend far too much time in front of the computer because of my Tuscany blogs.  But what he forgets is, that I spend many a nondescript winter morning soaking in the rock pools of Tuscany's natural hot springs - because of this blog. Hot springs, Roman baths and exclusive spas can be found all over the world. It's the  natural  p art th at has gone amiss in most places over the centuries. This is where Southern Tuscany comes in with its wild hot water pools in  Bagno Vignoni, San Filippo ,  Saturnia and Petriolo . All of these locations are known for their exclusive Tuscan hotel spas and the public thermal baths. But whatever the historical reasons, they also managed to preserve their simple rock pools in the midst of pristine nature; and even more surprising - free access to all of them.  Petriolo is one of your best options if you want to explore Tuscany's natural hot springs , soak in sulfurous waters or -...

Tuscany in the winter can be gloomy and chilly. Hotel rooms may be freezing and your favorite restaurant can be closed for most of the cold season. But this won't frighten the lover of strolls, walks and serious hikes. Because fog,  rain or even snow are rare to stay around. It's in spring and autumn that Italy gets most of its rain falls (or at least that's what the weather used to be like in the past). Tramontana and other winter winds may be cold, but who cares?  The incredible light, crystal clear views and the absence of tourists make sure you won't mind about having to dress in layers.    Wondering where to start hiking in Tuscany? Stunning scenery awaits around every corner, but signed out walks aren't quite that easy to get by. A great place to start is the Maremma National Park . Hiking trails are well looked after and the views towards Tuscany's islands and its southern coastline are too good for words.  To find out more about the myster...

No please! not another guidebook about Tuscany , was what I thought when I first met Veronica Ficarelli, author of yes, another Tuscany guide book. But once she mentioned the title of her book -   Tuscany, A Great Reason for Every S eason   I perked up my ears. Guidebooks about Tuscany normally start off with Michelangelo, take in Botticelli and end with Leonardo da Vinci. And quite rightly so. But after admiring all those people and landscapes rendered immortal by the great Renaissance masters, you may wonder what life is like down South in the 21st century. And the best way to find out is by meeting the people who live on the land.  But where to go and above all when to go?  Tr y leafing through your Lonely Planet or Frommer's guide for some advice on the matter. Nada. You'll get great Tuscany maps, info on museum opening times, the region's history and hotel bookings. But the small scale events and artisan shops have a hard time appearing in any of t...

In the summer of 2084 my son will turn 80 and my daughter 78. Quite probably they will still own the Tuscan olive grove that has been in the family for centuries. A lot will have changed by then - but not  the beautiful olive trees in that grove . On my son’s birthday in August the family will gather and after a Tuscan lunch far too heavy for such a hot day, one of my great-granddaughters will quickly skip through the countless family photos on a worn-out digital storage device. Quickly until she gets to the pictures of the winter 2012. “Grandpa, what’s this?” Igloo building in Tuscany

Spring is knocking at the door.   And that's a good thing. Not just for our olive trees and my father-in-law's vegetable garden. But also for the relationship between me and my Tuscan native. It's a good relationship, but the endless snow of this winter got it close to breaking point.  With a winter like this one, it all comes down to genes and cultural background. All that frozen water  provided material for epic misunderstandings.  Like when I said: "Why don't you go outside and play with the kids in the snow. You'll see it's plenty of fun!" I really thought the man would enjoy himself. Remember the fun of all those snowball battles and the endless hours spent building lovely snowmen? Looking out of the window, w hat I saw instead was this:  Basketball in a snowstorm, Tuscany winter 2012

Cinigiano's town square snowed in (a once in a century event)  The amazing quantities of snow in Tuscany have started to melt away, just in time to free our village's lovely main square for a winter outdoors event. It's a village tradition to celebrate the first day of lent (after all we just got used to celebrating during carnival, so why stop at lent?) with a hearty Tuscan dinner under the stars.  Rivolti (a local pancake made of solely of water and flour), hand-made polenta, Tuscan sausages, wine & a warming fire. Just the things one needs to get over the end of carnival and summon up some energy to sail through the last weeks of winter.  Dress warm and bring a healthy appetite. NOTTE DEI RIVOLTI 2012 , Cinigiano, Piazza Guglielmo Marconi, Wednesday 22nd of February, from 6pm till your feet start freezing off.  My Tuscan village is a 40 minutes drive from Grosseto (inland towards Monte Amiata) and an hour from Siena (driving towards Paganico...

The view from our house (what happened to the olive grove?) Last week I wrote about the snow that's falling on Tuscany, invoking the snowflakes to keep coming . That's what I call positive thinking. Forget the snowflakes, I managed to call in a full blown snowstorm. People in my Tuscan village tell me that they haven't seen anything like it since the winter of 1956. 

I t's all snow over Tuscany: schools are closed, highways are in a mess and airports are total no goes. If you happen to be stuck in Siena you'll be able to kill time with a few  life events . Not so if you happen to sit on a Tuscan hill, cut off from the rest of the world  - nightmare or bliss? I'd say enjoy the forced winter break in Tuscany: put another log on the fire, open a bottle of wine and get those dusty records out... Paolo Conte Vieni via con me -  live in Amsterdam 

I always avoid Sundays at the beach:  no parking, too many beach towels, too much noise, too much queuing up for ice-cream - basically too many people.  Unless you talk winter in Tuscany. At that point Sundays at the beach mean c lear skies, warm and sunny afternoons, long walks on empty beaches and... queue-free ice-cream.  Winter walk on Castiglione della Pescaia's north beach