Skip to main content

TUSCANY'S BEST BEACHES: CALA VIOLINA

The Cala Violina cove keeps being voted one of Italy's best beaches. Not for its beach bars and deck chair rentals (there are none), but for its clean waters and beautiful location with views towards the isle of Elba.


Arriving at Cala Violina via the footpath through the woods


The main reason why the Cala Violina cove remains a natural paradise lies in the difficult access to it. The beach can be reached only via a footpath through the Mediterranean shrub. However, this doesn't mean the beach is exactly off the beaten path. A paid parking area has been set up, due to the growing fame of the bay in recent years. The hike doesn't seem to put people off.

The tiny bay is called the violin cove because of the sound its fine sand makes when you walk on it. There is indeed a special sound to walking on it, but in summer you'll only be able to hear it if you tell my kids or the other Italians around to stop shouting around.


HOW TO GET TO CALA VIOLINA BAY
From Castiglione della Pescaia take the coastal road towards Scarlino. A bit after the turn off to Punta Ala (not to be taken), you'll pass a restaurant called Cala Violina, but drive on till you find indications for the parking area on the left side on the road. From here its about half an hour walk (less for the sporty ones) to the bay on a well kept hiking path.

Remember to bring plenty of water and a bite to eat since you won't come across a bar once you've started walking. The main part of the walk is through the wood, so it's shady enough to be done in summer too. However, the bay is popular with Italians who bring parasols and picnics so as to spend the whole day here in high season. So make sure you come early in the morning or towards the evening if you want to enjoy a bit of calm in the bay in July or August. Or as an alternative walk on to Cala Martina, the neighboring cove, which is pebbles not sand and hence less busy with beach goers, but attractive for history lovers since it has been a hiding place for Giuseppe Garibaldi on his way to Porto Venere. 

Ready for a proper hike? Walk or mountain bike along the 13km coastal path, which connects Punta Ala with the harbor of Scarlino (click through to the detailed hiking map).

Il Baracchino di Rodano is a great snack bar and Tuscan alimentari (food shoop) on the main road leading to the parking lot. Stop her for a quick lunch or buy the typical panini Maremmani (crunchy sandwiches made with Tuscan bread, prosciutto, cheese or salami) to take to the beach. 

Popular posts from this blog

WINE AND ARCHITECTURE: PETRA WINERY BY MARIO BOTTA

Southern Tuscany is home to a handful of wineries, which are often described as wine cathedrals.  The Petra vineyard near Suvereto (by architect Mario Botta) is an interesting example of this new approach in winery architecture. At Petra the world-class architect went beyond designing an impressive wine cellar, but also included the outlay of the vineyards in his aim to form a contemporary agricultural landscape.  Main building of the Petra Winery in Suvereto If it is true that the way to good wine starts in the he vineyard, it is also true that only the quality of the cork,  the design of the label,  and the beauty of the bottle shape will bring the consumer's experience to full circle.  Taking this thought further it's obvious that the birthplace of a good or even fantastic wine, is yes the vine and its grapes, but also the winery building in particular and the whole estate in general.  If you know any of Botta's works,  you'll recog...

Storytellers at the Todo Modo bookshop in Florence

I may not be religious, but I totally worship the Todo Modo bookshop in Florence for its beautiful interior design, central location - a ten-minute walk from the station and Ponte Vecchio - and the cafè hidden among shelves and plants hanging from the roof. UqBar serves some of the best lunches to be had in Florence - especially for people who'd love to forego the usual Tuscan fare for a delicious miso soup . But Todo Modo does another thing well. The shelf-filled spaces in the back can be turned into a small theatre which makes for a great event space among all the books. I had my Across the Big Blue Sea book presentation there and was back last month for a Storytellers night - the first event of a great new series.   Linda and Steve, the team from the The Beehive Hostel in Rome have decided to take their storytellers nights to Florence, and Todo Modo has agreed to host them. Whether residents or just travelling through, English speakers will have great fun...

SAN BIAGIO AT NIGHT - JUNE 7, 2019

San Biagio at night (with Montepulciano in the background) Day or night, San Biagio,  il tempio di San Biagio,  is always a looker. But it's a special treat to be able to visit the interior of the church all through the night.  As one of 150 churches in Italy, Montepulciano's famous temple church will stay open through the night for the ' La Lunga Notte delle Chiese' event. Concerts and various cultural happenings will take place during the long night of churches on June 7, 2019 from 9.15 pm.  Check the event website for details of the participating churches in Tuscany and all over Italy.