MAPPING TUSCANY

When I first visited the Amiata Piano festival I called beforehand to make a reservation. An unnecessary one since the concert was attended by a handful of people: two of my neighbors, the mayor of our town and me with a couple of Swiss friends in tow.  Waiting for Amiata Piano Festival at the ColleMassari winery Ten years later the festival rightly celebrates its first decade and reservations have become a must for the three concert cycles that bring world class musicians to Cinigiano , a little known Tuscan town in central Maremma. Dedicated to the great Claudio Abbado, the 2014 edition will put the spotlight on some of the major names in Italy's classical music scene. The first two cycles (called Baccus and Euterpe) take place in the Sala di Musica near Poggi del Sasso (with exclusion of the concert at the church of the Montecucco estate on the 29th of June).  The final concerts at the end of August will be hold in the ColleMassari winery; its contemporary wine c...

Over a decade ag o a group of Italian tourists  from the Veneto quickly s topped at one of Cinigiano's two small bars to ask for directions to famous Montalcino.  They left three days later.  The historic center of my Tuscan town  may not be much of a sight ,  but the  village bars have a certain reputation. In fact the aforementioned group has  been coming back every year. And rumo rs have it that they still haven't gotten around to make the drive to Brunello town .    WHAT TO  SEE A stroll through Cinigiano's tiny town center will make it obvious - the views towards Mount Amiata and over the  Maremma countryside  are the main attraction.  For more of them h op into your car and drive to one of the hamlets and villages which belong to Cinigiano's territory. Medieval looking Monticello Amiata is up on 734 meters and with that perfect for a cool  breeze on a hot summer day (and for freezing winds in ...

If you've been quietly following my photo stream on Instagram or Facebook , you may have been wondering about the exact location of the Sunday walks we've been taking this spring.  Not that I'd tell you.  I prefer to keep the hills of our valley to ourselves. Just the thought of a fellow hiker getting to the wild asparagus a few minutes before me; or a loud American tour group spoiling our calm morning in the fields...

Wondering what kind of place my Tuscan village is? The best time to find out is during the Festa dell'Uva, the wine harvest festival, which takes place every year on the first October weekend. Thinking of a wine festival you're probably expecting to find a bunch of people discussing tannins and barrel aging time. Forget it. You'll be seeing this.

WE ARE COMING TO GET YOU...

I'm on a secret mission. After a sleepless night I mustered the courage to do something I'm not supposed to do. At least according to my Tuscan native. I'm going to b log about MONTICELLO's FESTA DELLA CASTAGNA (the local chestnut festival). But shhhhh, don't you dare telling my better half! If you insist in reading this blog certain things will just have to stay between you and me.  Never heard of the notorious Tuscan Campanilismo ? If you want to experience it for real come to Cinigiano. Part of the council's territory includes Monticello. A miserable and cold little village on top of an unwelcoming mountain, populated by a bunch of half-wits.  Which is my Tuscan native's description of the town, who - it goes without saying - is not from Monticello. He is from Cinigiano, pure blood. And his statement is in line with the view of the rest of the Cinigianesi - the 500 people who were fortunate enough to have been born and raised a full 10 kilometer...

No doubt, the Dionisus cycle of the Amiata Piano Festival is one of the hidden gems in Southern Tuscany's summer festival scene. The Collemassari  wine cellar (designed by Italian architect  Edoardo Millesi ) makes for a stunning setting for the 4 concerts, which are quite rightly dedicated to Dionisus, the greek god of wine and wine making. The musicians match the prime setting; the pianist and artistic director Maurizio Baglini  has put together a selection of Italian and international musicians who'll guarantee for fantastic performances. 

Without doubt one of the best places to truly understand the Tuscans and to get to know the Tuscan food is not a restaurant but one of the many occasions when villages or towns organize a Sagra (local festivity) or any other event that involves food.

Tired of all the half-naked women in Italian TV? Not considering Bunga Bunga as a suitable career option for a 16 year old?  It's hard to believe if you watch Italian TV, but Italy is actually loaded with millions of women who couldn't care less about lap-dancing. A good place to validate the truth of this statement is definitely the  Women's Gold Day Offroad  near Borgo Santa Rita. Open to any woman who loves riding a Cross Enduro Bike. Races for pros and training session for tough chicks who'd like to have a try. And incredibly enough nobody has to undress to participate! Women's Gold Day Offroad 15th of May 2011 Crossodromo Borgo Santa Rita (Cinigiano).