SPAGHETTI AND FISH ON THE TUSCAN COAST: RESTAURANT ROSSO E VINO AT LA DOGANA

Waiting for Roger Federer. Classy la Dogana beach on the coast of Capalbio

Ever wanted to swim or walk from Tuscany to Lazio? That's exactly what I did during our week at La Dogana beach. My kids jumped waves in the Tuscan sea and I kept fishing them out in the northernmost corner of Lazio (the Italian region Rome belongs to).

Dogana means customs in Italian, and what is now a stylish brolly and deck chair rental, was once a checkpoint on the border of Papal State and Gran Duchy of Tuscany (and entirely free of sunburnt Swiss moms running from one side to the other).

But La Dogana beach has more to offer than borderline swims and history lessons. Every summer, the team of Grosseto's restaurant Rosso e Vino moves pots, pans and ladles to the shore for the season and turns La Dogana beach into the perfect location for a meal with a view.

Restaurant Rosso e Vino at La Dogana beach in Capalbio

And not just any meal. Being located on the Tuscan coast restaurant Rosso e Vino is, of course, a seafood specialist. But as so often, it's the skillful use of simple ingredients, which best reveals a chef's true talent: the first fork from my plate of tomato spaghetti and I knew I would be back. Daily.

By the end of the week one of the waiters told me that the Rosso e Vino team regularly visits selected tomato farmers to find the sweetest tasting fruits for their salsa di pomodoro. I wasn't surprised.

Rosso e Vino has two separate lunch and dinner menus. Dinners are a more elegant and expensive affair (show off with your new Italian outfit), whilst lunches are tailored for lay-back beach-goers (however, a nice shirt won't harm).

You can also just visit the bar for an ice-cream, cocktail or one of Rosso e Vino's refreshing caffè shakerato (iced coffee).

The real thing: Iced coffee Italian style at La Dogana

Plenty of caffè shakerato needed after all that running down to Lazio

ROSSO E VINO ALLA DOGANA
Restaurant with beach bar and deckchair rental on the coast of Capalbio, in località Gratticiaia. Take the Chiarone Scalo exit from the Auralia motorway and follow to the sea.
Open from Easter to end of September (during the rest of the year on reservation as a location for weddings, birthdays and other private celebrations).
Reservation recommended: +39 0564 890344
Deckchairs can be rented on a weekly or on a daily base.

For more info and things to do in the area read A Weekend in Capalbio.

WINE AND ARCHITECTURE: PETRA WINERY BY MARIO BOTTA

Southern Tuscany is home to a handful of wineries, which are often described as wine cathedrals. The Petra vineyard near Suvereto (by architect Mario Botta) is an interesting example of this new approach in winery architecture. At Petra the world-class architect went beyond designing an impressive wine cellar, but also included the outlay of the vineyards in his aim to form a contemporary agricultural landscape. Main building of the Petra Winery in Suvereto If it is true that the way to good wine starts in the he vineyard, it is also true that only the quality of the cork, the design of the label, and the beauty of the bottle shape will bring the consumer's experience to full circle. Taking this thought further it's obvious that the birthplace of a good or even fantastic wine, is yes the vine and its grapes, but also the winery building in particular and the whole estate in general. If you know any of Botta's works, you'll recog...

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Storytellers at the Todo Modo bookshop in Florence

I may not be religious, but I totally worship the Todo Modo bookshop in Florence for its beautiful interior design, central location - a ten-minute walk from the station and Ponte Vecchio - and the cafè hidden among shelves and plants hanging from the roof. UqBar serves some of the best lunches to be had in Florence - especially for people who'd love to forego the usual Tuscan fare for a delicious miso soup . But Todo Modo does another thing well. The shelf-filled spaces in the back can be turned into a small theatre which makes for a great event space among all the books. I had my Across the Big Blue Sea book presentation there and was back last month for a Storytellers night - the first event of a great new series. Linda and Steve, the team from the The Beehive Hostel in Rome have decided to take their storytellers nights to Florence, and Todo Modo has agreed to host them. Whether residents or just travelling through, English speakers will have great fun...

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SAN BIAGIO AT NIGHT - JUNE 7, 2019

San Biagio at night (with Montepulciano in the background) Day or night, San Biagio, il tempio di San Biagio, is always a looker. But it's a special treat to be able to visit the interior of the church all through the night. As one of 150 churches in Italy, Montepulciano's famous temple church will stay open through the night for the ' La Lunga Notte delle Chiese' event. Concerts and various cultural happenings will take place during the long night of churches on June 7, 2019 from 9.15 pm. Check the event website for details of the participating churches in Tuscany and all over Italy.

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