Skip to main content

AN INTRODUCTION TO THE NATURAL WINE MOVEMENT IN TUSCANY

My favorite Tuscan wineries use organic or sustainable approaches to winemaking. But what is it all about? Read Carlo Pandian's take on the biodynamic and organic wine movement in Tuscany. 

When you think of Tuscan wines, the words natural and organic probably aren’t the first to spring to mind. More likely you'll think of Chianti Classico or the bottles hailing from Montalcino – Italian appellations that incorporate the history and tradition that the region is famed for. Nevertheless, like in other winemaking regions throughout the world, a committed group of producers have contributed to the growth of natural wines in Tuscany in recent years. But what is 'natural' wine and how has this philosophy impacted upon this famous area?

The tying up of the vines at La Maliosa winery near Saturnia
Manual only vineyard work at the biodynamic winery La Maliosa in Southern Tuscany

Unlike the terms organic and biodynamic, which are often grouped under the same umbrella, natural wine has no legal definition or method of certification, being more of a general term to encompass a way of thinking that determines certain winemaking choices. Whereas organic certification stipulates that the grapes used have been grown with no chemical intervention, calling a wine ‘natural’ is more of an indication that the producer strives to make their wine with minimal technological and chemical interference. The natural approach takes things beyond organic certification, which focuses on vineyard practices only, and doesn't regulate yet what's happening in the wine cellar. 

For a wine to be labelled ‘biodynamic’, the already organic vineyard must have been subjected to the very specific nine biodynamic preparations advocated by the Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner in the 1920s. This thinking has a more spiritual bent, influenced by a belief in the impact of lunar movements and the natural rhythms of nature. Whether a producer decides to follow an organic or biodynamic route, these methods can both be described as ‘natural’. 

So how has this thinking influenced Tuscan producers? Like I mentioned before, Italian wine is still more closely associated with tradition over something that many perceive to be more new wave and modern. But throughout Tuscany, there is a constantly growing number of wineries, which adopt more natural practices.

One of those taking the step further to organic certification is Gualdo del Re, situated in Suvereto in Southern Tuscany. The owners felt that seeking out certification was essential in securing the trust of increasingly environmentally-conscious customers. La Fornace, run by the Gianetti family is a good example of a sustainable producer in Montalcino. The estate's Brunello wines prove that it is possible to adhere to the traditions of a famous wine region whilst adopting a more modern, ecological approach. And Tenuta Fontodi has shown that using biodynamic methods in Chianti Classico can produce great results.

Vineyards of the Col d'Orcia winery. Montalcino's biggest organic Brunello producer


The success of these producers proves that the natural wine movement has well and truly taken hold in the most traditional of areas, with Tuscany now having over twice as many organic producers as any other leading wine region in Italy. 

Whereas some in the trade have suggested that the natural wine ‘fad’ is on the wane, the enthusiasm for its results in both passionate producers and interested consumers shows that this is more than just a passing phase in Italian, and more specifically, Tuscan wine production. And despite its ‘modern’ label, what could be more traditional than a passion for a natural process that expresses the true nature of the Tuscan terroir?

 Carlo is an Italian expat based in London who loves wine. Get in touch with him @carlopandian.
Labels:

Popular posts from this blog

WINE AND ARCHITECTURE: PETRA WINERY BY MARIO BOTTA

Southern Tuscany is home to a handful of wineries, which are often described as wine cathedrals.  The Petra vineyard near Suvereto (by architect Mario Botta) is an interesting example of this new approach in winery architecture. At Petra the world-class architect went beyond designing an impressive wine cellar, but also included the outlay of the vineyards in his aim to form a contemporary agricultural landscape.  Main building of the Petra Winery in Suvereto If it is true that the way to good wine starts in the he vineyard, it is also true that only the quality of the cork,  the design of the label,  and the beauty of the bottle shape will bring the consumer's experience to full circle.  Taking this thought further it's obvious that the birthplace of a good or even fantastic wine, is yes the vine and its grapes, but also the winery building in particular and the whole estate in general.  If you know any of Botta's works,  you'll recog...
Read on

Storytellers at the Todo Modo bookshop in Florence

I may not be religious, but I totally worship the Todo Modo bookshop in Florence for its beautiful interior design, central location - a ten-minute walk from the station and Ponte Vecchio - and the cafè hidden among shelves and plants hanging from the roof. UqBar serves some of the best lunches to be had in Florence - especially for people who'd love to forego the usual Tuscan fare for a delicious miso soup . But Todo Modo does another thing well. The shelf-filled spaces in the back can be turned into a small theatre which makes for a great event space among all the books. I had my Across the Big Blue Sea book presentation there and was back last month for a Storytellers night - the first event of a great new series.   Linda and Steve, the team from the The Beehive Hostel in Rome have decided to take their storytellers nights to Florence, and Todo Modo has agreed to host them. Whether residents or just travelling through, English speakers will have great fun...
Read on

SAN BIAGIO AT NIGHT - JUNE 7, 2019

San Biagio at night (with Montepulciano in the background) Day or night, San Biagio,  il tempio di San Biagio,  is always a looker. But it's a special treat to be able to visit the interior of the church all through the night.  As one of 150 churches in Italy, Montepulciano's famous temple church will stay open through the night for the ' La Lunga Notte delle Chiese' event. Concerts and various cultural happenings will take place during the long night of churches on June 7, 2019 from 9.15 pm.  Check the event website for details of the participating churches in Tuscany and all over Italy.  
Read on