Skip to main content

CAMPAGNATICO: A PHOTO GUIDE TO DANTE'S MAREMMA


Campagnatico during a thunder storm in the hills of the Maremma
On top of a green hill
Campagnatico seen from the South - East

When approaching Campagnatico during stormy weather, one isn't surprised that the Tuscan village got a mention in the book of books: Dante's Divine Comedy.

 700 years later, Campagnatico doesn't look too different from what Dante must have imagined - but probably never saw in person - as the ideal backdrop for a scene in the purgatory: a Maremma nobleman's repentance over the errors he committed during his life (too much haughtiness was already an issue in Dante's time!). 
Campagnatico historic town center
Campagnatico seen from Villa Bellaria

 Picture perfect (probably more so now than in the Middle Ages), the hill town in the Maremma has a lay-back atmosphere. Cats and the elderly sit on benches and the town's only bar tender is busy making Cappuccino, preparing Campari or selling newspapers. Population is low, but still high enough to allow for the survival of two alimentari (small food stores), a post office, a pharmacy and a total of three restaurants. 


Contemplating life on a bench in front of an 'alimentari' (food store) in Campagnatico
The pace of life in Campagnatico

WHAT TO SEE 

 Have a look at the town's lovely churches (one of them constructed right out of the town walls) and then stop for Cappuccino or aperitivo at the bar and count the passersby (one hand should suffice). 

 Make sure you take time for a short countryside walk, which takes you on a dirt road around the town. Walk to the roundabout right at the town entrance,  and there take the small road to the right that leads down into the valley. Stay on the road until you get to the medieval town walls on the other end of Campagnatico. You'll find lovely olive groves, wildflowers, and great views towards Monte Amiata and the Collemassari winery to the East, and once on the other side of town to Grosseto and the Tuscan coast in the West. 

 FOOD AND WINE 

LOCANDA DEL GLICINE offers refined ambiance and great food. The restaurant belongs to the properties of the Monaci family, who are the initiators of many a cultural and food & wine related event in Campagnatico. The family also owns the PIEVE VECCHIA vineyard five minutes out of town. A visit at the winery is definitely worth your time, not only for the tasting of the estate's Tuscan red and white wines, but also for its contemporary architectural approach. 

 For good pizza and rustic Tuscan cuisine dine at LA VECCHIA OLIVIERA. The restaurant is located right at the beginning of town and has a beautiful and spacious dining room.  

WHERE TO SLEEP

 Right in the middle of Campagnatico lies VILLA BELLARIA, which offers rooms or apartment stays. Villa Bellaria is a great choice if you want Tuscan village life combined with views, space and tranquility. Apartments are simple but tastefully furnished and the park and villa still account for some of the former grandeur. There's a pool and an improvised volleyball court, and room/apartment prices are very good for Tuscan standards.
Getting married or renewing your vows? Villa Bellaria would also make for a perfect venue to do so in style. Invite the rest of your family without risking to blow your budget. 

CAMPAGNATICO IN THE DIVINE COMEDY

 You can find the aforementioned passage of the Divine Comedy online on Poetry in Translation (scroll down to Purgatorio Canto XI:37-72 Omberto Aldobrandeschi). The canto tells about Omberto, a member of the Aldobrandeschi family - powerful Lombards, who ruled a big slice of Southern Tuscany stretching from Mount Amiata to the Maremma all through the middle ages. Dante meets Omberto during his walk through the purgatory. Killed by the Sienese, Omberto pays for the hubris shown during his short life. It must have taken quite some time in Dante's purgatory for him to understand that there is no such thing as blue blood. 

You'll also find signs citing the passage of the Divine Comedy in Campagnatico itself. Interestingly, some of them are signed with the name of the town's Berlusconi style ex-mayor. The obsessive adding of his name to public signs is telling. He obviously didn't get Dante's message, but suffers from the same lack of modesty as the famous Omberto. 

 Can't come out yet? Scroll down for more photos of Campagnatico in spring. 

Into the wild, right next to Campanatico's town walls
Work in progress. The countryside road leading around Campagnatico. 

Campagnatico's churches: Pieve di San Giovanni Battista
From fortress to bell tower
View over the Maremma hills from Campagnatico's Villa Bellaria
Lunch break at Villa Bellaria

Medieval town houses in the town center
Spring cleaning in Campagnatico.

Pine and cypress trees in the park of hotel Villa Bellaria
Renaissance playground. The park at Villa Bellaria. 

A backroad in Campagnatico's small town center
The fabulous Tuscan light. To be found in Campagnatico too. 

One of the buildings at agriturismo Villa Bellaria
Detail of the old stables at hotel Villa Bellaria


Cloud hunting in Campagnatico
Ciao Campagnatico. We'll be back. 
Labels:
Location: 58042 Campagnatico GR, Italia

Popular posts from this blog

WINE AND ARCHITECTURE: PETRA WINERY BY MARIO BOTTA

Southern Tuscany is home to a handful of wineries, which are often described as wine cathedrals.  The Petra vineyard near Suvereto (by architect Mario Botta) is an interesting example of this new approach in winery architecture. At Petra the world-class architect went beyond designing an impressive wine cellar, but also included the outlay of the vineyards in his aim to form a contemporary agricultural landscape.  Main building of the Petra Winery in Suvereto If it is true that the way to good wine starts in the he vineyard, it is also true that only the quality of the cork,  the design of the label,  and the beauty of the bottle shape will bring the consumer's experience to full circle.  Taking this thought further it's obvious that the birthplace of a good or even fantastic wine, is yes the vine and its grapes, but also the winery building in particular and the whole estate in general.  If you know any of Botta's works,  you'll recog...
Read on

Storytellers at the Todo Modo bookshop in Florence

I may not be religious, but I totally worship the Todo Modo bookshop in Florence for its beautiful interior design, central location - a ten-minute walk from the station and Ponte Vecchio - and the cafè hidden among shelves and plants hanging from the roof. UqBar serves some of the best lunches to be had in Florence - especially for people who'd love to forego the usual Tuscan fare for a delicious miso soup . But Todo Modo does another thing well. The shelf-filled spaces in the back can be turned into a small theatre which makes for a great event space among all the books. I had my Across the Big Blue Sea book presentation there and was back last month for a Storytellers night - the first event of a great new series.   Linda and Steve, the team from the The Beehive Hostel in Rome have decided to take their storytellers nights to Florence, and Todo Modo has agreed to host them. Whether residents or just travelling through, English speakers will have great fun...
Read on

SAN BIAGIO AT NIGHT - JUNE 7, 2019

San Biagio at night (with Montepulciano in the background) Day or night, San Biagio,  il tempio di San Biagio,  is always a looker. But it's a special treat to be able to visit the interior of the church all through the night.  As one of 150 churches in Italy, Montepulciano's famous temple church will stay open through the night for the ' La Lunga Notte delle Chiese' event. Concerts and various cultural happenings will take place during the long night of churches on June 7, 2019 from 9.15 pm.  Check the event website for details of the participating churches in Tuscany and all over Italy.  
Read on