Skip to main content

AT SAN MARTINO EVERYBODY IN CANTINA

America's Indian Summer is what we call Estate di San Martino in Italy. But not just surprisingly warm autumn temperatures are related to St. Martin's day on the 11th of November. This is also the time of the year the fermentation of new wines has come to an end, a process described by another Italian proverb related to St. Martin: A San Martino ogni mosto diventa vino (by St. Martin every must has turned into wine). 

And with the beach and festival season long gone and the weather forecast for Sunday looking wet and unfriendly, what better time to visit some of Tuscany's finest wineries. San Martino in Cantina is one of five national winery visit days the Italian Wine Tourism Movement organizes every year. Three dozens of wineries in the provinces of Siena and Grosseto adhere to the initiative and welcome visitors for a free autumn tasting in their wine cellars.

On my quest to discover Tuscany's vineyards with a calling for architecture, I'll be tasting wine and admiring building blocks at the Pieve Vecchia vineyard in Campagnatico. The winery has been designed by Italian architect and designer Cini Boeri. Milan born Boeri is also known for her collaboration with some of Italy's finest names in furniture design.


Campagnatico seen from the park of Villa Bellaria
View towards Campagnatico from Villa Bellaria


After wine and architecture move on to literature and visit nearby Campagnatico. The small medieval village came to fame earlier than many another Tuscan hilltop town thanks to its mention in the Purgatory of Dante's Divine Comedy. But unlike Under The Tuscan Sun, Dante doesn't bring hoards of tourists. So don't expect a second Cortona, but prepare for a lonesome coffee bar selling newspapers, a couple of good old Tuscan restaurants, a lovely villa offering accommodation and a population quite happy with the fact that big tourism hasn't hit yet.  

SAN MARTINO IN CANTINA, SUNDAY 11TH OF NOVEMBER 2012
The Pieve Vecchia winery will be open from 10 am to 6 pm on the day. If you'd like to keep tasting, check the website of the Wine Tourism Movement for a list of participating Tuscan wine estates. For exact timing and location, best call your selected winery beforehand.

Not here yet, but wanting to come out in the future? Read my post on planning winery visits in Tuscany.  

Campagnatico's medieval town center in Southern Tuscany
Taking it easy
 Campagnatico in Southern Tuscany
The villa at agriturismo Villa Bellaria in Campagnatico
Villa Bellaria 

Medieval alleywas in Campagnatico
No tourist around

Marble plate commemorating Dante's Divine Comedy in Campagnatico
Dante's take on Campagnatico
Tuscan door and cat in Campagnatico's town center
Nobody home


Popular posts from this blog

WINE AND ARCHITECTURE: PETRA WINERY BY MARIO BOTTA

Southern Tuscany is home to a handful of wineries, which are often described as wine cathedrals.  The Petra vineyard near Suvereto (by architect Mario Botta) is an interesting example of this new approach in winery architecture. At Petra the world-class architect went beyond designing an impressive wine cellar, but also included the outlay of the vineyards in his aim to form a contemporary agricultural landscape.  Main building of the Petra Winery in Suvereto If it is true that the way to good wine starts in the he vineyard, it is also true that only the quality of the cork,  the design of the label,  and the beauty of the bottle shape will bring the consumer's experience to full circle.  Taking this thought further it's obvious that the birthplace of a good or even fantastic wine, is yes the vine and its grapes, but also the winery building in particular and the whole estate in general.  If you know any of Botta's works,  you'll recog...

Storytellers at the Todo Modo bookshop in Florence

I may not be religious, but I totally worship the Todo Modo bookshop in Florence for its beautiful interior design, central location - a ten-minute walk from the station and Ponte Vecchio - and the cafè hidden among shelves and plants hanging from the roof. UqBar serves some of the best lunches to be had in Florence - especially for people who'd love to forego the usual Tuscan fare for a delicious miso soup . But Todo Modo does another thing well. The shelf-filled spaces in the back can be turned into a small theatre which makes for a great event space among all the books. I had my Across the Big Blue Sea book presentation there and was back last month for a Storytellers night - the first event of a great new series.   Linda and Steve, the team from the The Beehive Hostel in Rome have decided to take their storytellers nights to Florence, and Todo Modo has agreed to host them. Whether residents or just travelling through, English speakers will have great fun...

SAN BIAGIO AT NIGHT - JUNE 7, 2019

San Biagio at night (with Montepulciano in the background) Day or night, San Biagio,  il tempio di San Biagio,  is always a looker. But it's a special treat to be able to visit the interior of the church all through the night.  As one of 150 churches in Italy, Montepulciano's famous temple church will stay open through the night for the ' La Lunga Notte delle Chiese' event. Concerts and various cultural happenings will take place during the long night of churches on June 7, 2019 from 9.15 pm.  Check the event website for details of the participating churches in Tuscany and all over Italy.